Walking through 20 de Noviembre market in Oaxaca City, I felt the eerie feeling of being watched. It wasn’t by somebody, but by some faces embedded in loaves of pan de muerto (bread of the dead). My quest to discover the significance of this bread within Día de Muertos led me to four towns, a multitude of bakeries and inside people’s homes. Find out what I learned in my first story for National Geographic Travel with gorgeous photography by Stephanie Foden!

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